Back to Berlin

During the early 20th century, Berlin was home to a vibrant Jewish population. The Jerusalem Post reports that young Israelis are moving to Berlin "in droves". Read this in conjunction with my last post about young Germans who finally embrace "pride" and no longer feel so burdened by their grandparents' crimes. It's an exciting development, hinting at the real possibility of genuine reconciliation and a broader horizon for both peoples.
Of course, I'm a pessimist when it comes to issues of ethnic identity and the capacity of individuals to embrace violent ethnocentrism over rational co-existence. I would love to see this young generation of Germans and Israelis prove me wrong.

Deutscher Pride

This kind of Pride?

I read once that a favorite topic of parlor conversation during the nineteenth-century concerned the basic identity of Russia--were the Russians, at their core, European or Asiatic? I guess only the Russians can say. Since 1945, at least three generations of westerners have debated whether Germans have the right to express national pride. The rest of us get to do it, right? But those Teutons--there's something particularly unsettling about them. Do they get to ride down Berlin streets waving flags from the backs of their VW vans? This is from today's New York Times--"German Identity, Long Dormant, Reasserts Itself". To which identity is N. Kulish referring? The Prussian one? An anti-fascist identity?

Marx Engels Forum is Moving

Back in 1991, I wandered down Unten den Linden until I ran into the Marx-Engels Forum just west of Alexanderplatz and the famous Fernsehturm. In June, it was one of the first locations I sought out, and I was excited to see there was more to the monument than I originally thought--metal stelae that tell the story of socialism in a series of engraved images. I immediately asked a pair of tourists to take my photo with the great-grandfathers of communism. Only afterward did I notice that tourists love to sit on Karl's lap--the bronze of his hands is polished from so many bourgeois fannys.

Today I learned that the statues are getting moved to set up a staging area for a subway route. It seems that the move to the Karl-Liebknecht Bridge (50 meters south, facing to the west). Apparently, the plan is to return them in 2017.

Hopefully they won't be replaced with some long-gone historical reconstruction, though it would probably surprise nobody if (as in the case of the recently demolished Palast der Republik) wealthy westerners sought to do away with the DDR-relic.