22.9.14
NPR does Nihilism
19.8.14
Ernst Jünger’s Shot-up Stahlhelm
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| Shot in the head during the battle of Cambrai (1917). On display at the Deutsches Historisches Museum in Berlin. |
That said, I recently learned about Ernest Hemingway's claims that he killed as many as 122 German soldiers in WWII. He appears to have murdered at least one unarmed prisoner outright, but biographers won't take him at his word. I think his actions don't correspond to his myth, and so we choose to dismiss them. The same may be true about Jünger. Nobody wants to believe that such a prolific, creative author would throw his lot in with a mob of cretins.
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| A few of Jünger's Diaries |
My next Great War memoir will have to be Siegfried Sassoon's The Complete Memoirs of George Sherston. Translation won't be an issue.
2.8.14
Sacco's "Fixer"
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| Neven: Sarajevan Man of Mystery |
Upon returning home, I pulled Joe
Sacco’s illustrated reportage from my bookshelf. The war in Bosnia
was Sacco’s Spanish Civil War, and Safe
Area: Gorazde his Homage to Catalonia.
He didn’t fight, of course, but his stories still resonate. His own
experiences during the siege and the contacts he made in the 90s provided
enough material for two additional books: War’s
End and The Fixer. They’re both
excellent.
Re-reading The Fixer following our journey was instructive. I could better
appreciate how Sacco worked the story out on multiple levels. One story is
Sacco’s, as he negotiates the wartime city. Another is the story of the city
itself and the many underworld figures who organized its defense.
But the real story is about “the
fixer” himself. Neven is Sacco’s unreliable narrator and guide through the shrapnel-scared
streets of Sarajevo. Outside of Sacco’s own self-deprecating voice, it is
Neven’s that we hear most clearly. A Serb defender of Sarajevo, Neven lurks in
dark hotel lobbies, perpetually in debt, ever on the make, looking for western
journalists who want to get close to the trenches in the hills above the city.
The story of Sarajevo’s paramilitary antiheroes—Caco and Celo—remind us that this
was a dirty, confused and morally ambiguous war. We wanted simple answers, and
there are none to be had. The strongmen of Sarajevo press-ganged civilians into
digging trenches, enriched themselves on the black market, and even
‘disappeared’ local Serbs who remained in the city. Sacco is at his most
journalistic when he recounts their histories. However, those panels are also
the least interesting in the book. The real story concerns Neven himself. He
remains a mystery throughout the book. We don’t know if we can believe his
stories about the Sarajevan underworld, much less his tales of his own
battlefield heroics. At one point, a fellow soldier dismisses Neven’s account
of a desperate battle against “43 tanks”, suggesting that Neven actually ducked
front-line service. Later, another Sarajevan asserts that Neven was brave to
the point of recklessness. Sacco lets us decide what we want to believe.
I want to believe in the romantic
warrior who risked his life for a multi-ethnic city that no longer exists. I
want to believe that the balding, paunchy, perpetually-broke Neven fiercely
fought for the cause of Serbo-Bosniak co-existence, or at least Sarajevo. The war in the 90s left us to
wallow in the mud and slaughter of Srebrenica. I turned off my television
rather than watch more footage of useless UN “Smurfs” and meaningless talk from
our politicians. But Neven seems different, and one Neven can remind us that
war can evoke love as well as hatred.
Sarajevo: Scarred and Divided
Sarajevo is still a divided city,
and I can imagine that many Sarajevans still feel that their security is tenuous.
A quick Google search reveals that Sarajevo as well as the entire Bosniak
“heart” of Bosnia-Herzegovina is landlocked, surrounded on three sides by the
Republska Serbska and on the fourth by Croat-dominated territory. The region
around Sarajevo itself is also divided. During the siege of 92-95, a large section
of the southern bank of the rust-colored Miljacka River was occupied by Serb
forces, and even today the boarder of Republika Srpska lies just over the wooded
line of hills south of the city. Just this week, the gulf between Serbs and Bosniaks
was once again apparent as the two communities held separate commemorative
events. Bosniaks invited the Vienna Philharmonic to play in the Vijecnica National
Library. I day earlier, in a Serb neighborhood to the east, residents unveiled
a monument to the assassin/freedom fighter Gavrilo Princip. Reuters covered the
story (and interviewed our group) HERE.
Even small things appear to
reflect the continuing ethnic mistrust in this country. As he drove us from the
airport along narrow, winding roads to a centuries-old Jewish cemetery
overlooking Sarajevo from the south bank of the Miljacka, D______, our tour
guide pulled a pack of Marlboro cigarettes out of his pants pocket. “You see,”
he said, “the warning labels must be printed three times. Once in Cyrillic for
the Serbs, of course. Then the same warning is printed for the Croats and
Bosnians, even though it’s spelled the same. Word for word.” The street signs
were now posted in Cyrillic as well.
This is a story we heard from
other short-term residents as well. Barhana is a popular rakjia bar in the Baščaršija
old town. American graduate students and other young tourists dominate the
space. There is still a joint European military mission in Bosnia-Herzegovina,
and EUFOR soldiers stationed near the airport were eating lunch at Barhana at
the table next to ours. “Where is the new statue of Princip?” we asked. They
didn’t know, and they advised us that we would never find out unless we asked
in Serbian neighborhoods. Bosnians will simply ignore you or gently apologize
and shrug, offering you a Sarajevsko Pivo. You can’t even get Novi Sad Serbian
beer unless you leave Sarajevo. Serbs won’t sell Bosniak beer, and Bosniaks return
the favor.
The Sarajevsko brewery itself,
just across the river from the Latin Bridge, is evidence of the Austro-Hungarian
Empire’s lasting impact. Krakow and
Prague play up their Habsburg roots, trading on a romantic narrative of a
degenerating, doomed central European aristocracy—Think of the tragic stories
of the beautiful and neurasthenic Empress Sisi or the murder-suicide of her
son, the crown prince Rudolf. In contrast, it’s difficult to determine whether
there’s any serious Habsburg nostalgia here. Clearly, the Austrians (or
“Schwabes”, as Ivo Andrich’s Visegrad Turks refer to them in Bridge on the Drina)
shaped this city as much as the Ottomans. One sees it in the architecture—solid
facades reminiscent of similarly formidable Secession-style Belle Epoch
buildings in Paris, Berlin, Budapest and Vienna. But Turkish Islam, Titoism,
and the siege have had a far greater impact on look and feel of the city.
Even though the mythic tragedy of
the murdered Archduke—a man who hoped to provide national minorities within the
empire more autonomy, whose greatest
joy was playing with his children, whose last words were “Sopherl! Don’t die!
Live for our children!”—would seem to provide an obvious source of tourist
revenue, the city is too divided about the character and status of the
assassin. For many years, Sarajevans marked the spot where Princip stood with
the imprint of his shoes in concrete. During the civil war in the 90s, however,
the monument was removed (now it stands just inside the door to the museum).
Many Serbs view him as one of their greatest heroes and they are quick to
accuse those who refer to Princip as a “nationalist” or “terrorist” of
anti-Serb prejudice.
Personally, I find this kind of
knee-jerk response to the realities of the historical record baffling. It is a
fact that Princip acted in concert with certain officials from Serbia who hoped
to use terror and assassination to eject the Austrians from Bosnia. It is a
fact that Princip’s actions that day triggered a cascade of events culminating
in the outbreak of war a month later. However, those facts don’t damn the
Serbians as a people or Serbia as a nation. It does not make them uniquely
responsible for the catastrophe of the Great War. Most historians point at the
other great powers: Germany and Austria for the most part (Fischer,
Hastings), occasionally Great Britain (Ferguson) or even Russia. This is
clearly a case where the violent breakup of Yugoslavia has made the sober assessment
of history impossible. Serbs feel that the West continues to unfairly victimize
them for their role in the war; that they suffered as much if not more than the
Croats and Bosniaks, and that they must defend their own myths or risk losing
face.
1.8.14
Sassoon's Journals Online!
Siegfried Sassoon's wartime diaries are now available online in their entirety. You can read them at the Cambridge Digital Library. HERE
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| Sassoon attacks a German position on the Somme |
22.6.14
In the Trenches Around "Wipers"
Today we finally piled into our rental car and began our tour of the battlefields of Flanders. Joe drove us all the way to the Vladslo German Military Cemetery northeast of Ypres and Diksmuide. Our goal was to finally see Kaethe Kollwitz's "Grieving Parents"--the monument she cast in honor of her son Peter, who died in October, 1914. We arrived early enough to beat the tour bus crowd.
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| Kollwitz: the Grieving Mother |
| Kollwitz's Husband |
AND THEN...
We made our way to Ypres (Ipres to the Belgians, "Wipers" to the British). We visited the In Flanders' Fields Museum, and it was terrific. The museum is interactive and the displays fascinating. I'll add some more later. Finally, we drove to Hill 62. It's a site that includes the remnants of a British trench system from 1918. All of us wandered through it.
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| Yes. Overjoyed to finally be in a trench. |
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| The cratered landscape on Hill 62 |
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