25.6.10

Jewish Berlin

Yesterday and today I visited sites associated with the history of European Jewry. The Monument to the Murdered Jews of Europe is powerful and really brilliant. Fortunately for anybody visiting Berlin, it's directly south of the Reichstag and the Brandenburg Gate, so there's time for everyone to visit it. Just climb out of a train at the Hauptbahnhof and walk 15-20 minutes. Peter Eisenmann created a monument that would "develop a new idea of remembering" because his field of different sized stelae provide no symbolic guidance. One walks into a monument with "no goal, no end, and no [clearly apparent] way in or out". For an event as inconceivable as the Shoah, words seem insufficient.
Once you find the entrance to the underground information center however, you really understand how incredible this entire construction is. It not only provides historical context. It provides rooms that invite the visitor into the experiences of victims and seeks to humanize a historical event that most of us associate with huge, impersonal numbers. While the fact that it seeks to evoke an emotional response might bother some museum purists, this is not a museum. The "exhibit" halls -- if one can call them that -- are places of reflection and contemplation.
The Juedisches Museum Berlin, however, makes every effort to actively engage the visitor. I was overwhelmed by the richness of the permanent exhibition and had to break off my visit due to "museum fatigue". Even then, as I walked swiftly through the second half of the exhibit, I stopped two or three times because some artifact caught my eye/ear. For example, there was a clip from a brief television interview with Hanna Arendt. I sat down in front of the monitor, listened, and gaped.
This is a museum that deserves an entire day, or perhaps a couple of visits over time. The same is not true for Karlshorst. As much as there is to learn there, it doesn't have the same compelling power of narrative (and it should!). The architecture of the space lends much to the experience. One senses that this place is special, indeed.
This is another museum that seeks to inspire wonder and empathy. Does that limit its authority as an educational site? Does it fail the "objectivity" test? If the other extreme is the Panzer Museum at Munster, I'll take the Jewish Museum any time.