On Friday, I returned to Leipzig by S-Bahn. Like Thursday,
it was terrifically hot, and Germans aren’t known for cranking up the AC. My
initial plan was to eat some currywurst and head directly to the “Runde Ecke” Museum.
But I decided I would walk around for a bit to get oriented first, hugging
whichever side of the street provided more shade.
That’s when I stumbled onto this:
| Tank tracks in Leipzig |
At first I thought the
bronze tank track imprints were some kind of access grates. Instead, they
memorialize the 1953 Volksaufstand (or Arbeiteraufstand—both are equally valid
names). When I saw the memorial, I assumed it made reference to the events in
East Berlin along the Stalinallee. I didn’t realize that the uprising spread to
multiple East German cities! Later, I purchased two books on the topic at the
Runde Ecke Museum.
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| The extent of the Uprising |
In 1990, I was actually considering writing about the June
17 Uprising. Robert Koehl was my Senior Thesis advisor at UW-Madison, and he
encouraged me to research and write about the SS instead. I’m glad he did. First
of all, there was there not enough information in general circulation (the East
German authorities insisted for years that the event was a provocation coordinated
by fascists and the CIA). In addition, there’s no way I was prepared to read
multiple German sources.
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| A crowd of Leipzigers carries a protester’s body past a Soviet tank |

